Kumano Kodo

In short: Kumano Kodo: from Tanabe to Kumano Nachi Taisha. Length: around 68 km (Nakahechi), duration: 4 to 5 days. Best time: March to May, October and November.

Overview

The Kumano Kodo is a network of pilgrimage trails on the Kii Peninsula and has been part of Japanese pilgrimage culture for over 1,000 years. Together with the Way of St James it is one of only two pilgrimage routes listed as UNESCO World Heritage.

The most popular route, the Nakahechi, runs around 68 kilometres from Tanabe through cedar forests and mountain villages to the three great shrines of Kumano. Some climbs are steep, and it rains a lot in this region, so take good rainwear.

You sleep in small guesthouses called minshuku, often with a hot spring and dinner included. Book early, as the number of rooms is limited. If you also walk the Way of St James, you can register as a “Dual Pilgrim”.

Main stops: Tanabe, Takijiri-oji, Chikatsuyu, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Nachi Taisha.

The Nakahechi through the Kii mountains

The trails lead across the Kii Peninsula south of Osaka to the three great shrines of Kumano: Hongu, Hayatama and Nachi. They have been UNESCO World Heritage since 2004. The most popular route is the Nakahechi, which starts at Takijiri-oji and was once walked by the imperial family.

You walk on old stone paving through cedar forests. The route isn't long but it is steep, and the stones get slippery after rain.

Staying in minshuku and onsen

The accommodation is small and mostly family-run. Book early, as the mountain villages have only a few rooms. Yunomine Onsen is one of the oldest hot springs in Japan and a good destination after Hongu Taisha.

Kumano is linked with the Way of St James as a partner route. If you walk both, you can register as a Dual Pilgrim.

Planning your stages

How long you need depends on your daily distance. The table works this out for 68 kilometres, with one rest day a week.

Who is this route for?

With some hiking experience this route is very manageable. Expect climbs and keep your days from getting too long.

You can find more routes under Pilgrimage routes in Asia, Pilgrimage in Japan, sorted by religion under Shinto pilgrimage routes.